Rolled Pleats

I make these pleats for “Breughel” outer gowns. The method works really well.

Organ Pipe Pleats

The organ pipe pleat examples are from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was originally thought they were from the early 17th century. They have now decided they are perhaps made from 17th century fabric but were constructed later. I won’t have this with me, but I have reproduced the skirt in a Wappenrock.

Modified Organ Pipe Pleats

This is just something I made up. They look like soft organ pipe pleats

Cartridge Pleats – Large Heavy

These are just huge cartridge pleats made from heavy fabrics like brocades and velvets.

Cartridge Pleats – Mechanical

These are the tiny pleats you see in necklines and cuffs of chemises all over!

They are made with a pleating machine. Sometimes it is interesting to see how this is actually done because it can be quite ‘fiddly’.

Cartridge Pleats – Schifanoia

I call these “Schifanoia” pleats. They are named for the frescos in which they appear at the Palazzo Schifanoia. They are an oddly spaced, little, cartridge pleat which is applied vertically to a bodice.

Knife and Box Pleats (Including Inverted)

These are pretty common in modern clothing. I use them in period clothing to add volume but to be honest, I am still looking for more examples ‘in period.’ (Yep, there are inverted box pleats in the “Schifanoia” example.)